Yogurt

Creamy curdled milk. An oxymoron perhaps, but next to cheese, yogurt is milk’s greatest offspring. Smooth and subtly tangy, the ancient product dates back to the 1700s, when it originated in the Middle East. Whereas in America, yogurt typically suggests fruit and granola, in the Middle East it’s still a staple, consumed as beverage, condiment, entrée, side dish and dessert.

Around the globe, culinary uses for plain, unflavored yogurt run the gamut. For example, in Lebanon yogurt is an essential ingredient in meat pies. It’s combined with ground beef, onion, pinenuts, allspice and cinnamon, then baked on pita bread. Armenians make a thirst-quenching drink called tahn by diluting yogurt with an equal amount of cold water and adding salt to taste. Jajik, a chilled yogurt soup popular in Greece, is made with crushed garlic, peeled seeded sliced cucumber, salt and fresh mint. Blanched chopped Swiss chard or spinach may be substituted for the cucumber—or even small pasta shells. 

Yogurt is made by adding two types of cultures—lactobacillus bulgaricus and streptococcus thermophilus—to warm milk. The bacteria convert the milk’s sugar to lactic acid, turning it into a delicate silken gel. Rich in calcium, protein and B vitamins, yogurt boasts an impressive nutritional profile that makes it appealing to health-conscious consumers.

There are three types of commercial yogurt. Regular is made from whole milk and has at least a 3.25% milk fat, lowfat yogurt is made from lowfat milk and has between 2-0.5% milk fat, and nonfat yogurt is made from skim milk and contains less than 0.5% milk fat.
Prepared yogurt is convenient; however, yogurt made from scratch has no commercial rival. To make your own, start by choosing the milk (e.g. cow, sheep, goat or buffalo). You’ll also need one cup of commercial plain yogurt or 5 gm. of freeze-dried starter culture per quart of milk. Bring milk to a boil and then lower its temperature to 120° F. Gently stir in the culture and cover with a lid and towel. Place the covered bowl where it won’t be disturbed for 3-4 hr. in a warm area. An oven (turned off) with a pilot light is ideal. Transfer the bowl to the cooler after the yogurt has set.

Unadulterated, handmade yogurt is a uniquely-flavored food that adds a pure quality to dishes. For instance, a dollop adds a creamy texture and appealing tanginess to soups (black bean, lentil or split pea) or fruit cobblers. To give dishes a lower fat content, substitute yogurt for sour cream. It can also replace mayonnaise in salad dressings or dips.

Yogurt can be strained to obtain a thicker body, as called for in the classic Indian condiment, raita. A yogurt salad typically made with cucumber, green chiles and mint, raita can be enhanced with blanched, chopped greens, orange sections or any number of raw or cooked vegetables.

Yogurt cheese is made by draining yogurt in a cheesecloth-lined strainer on top of a bowl placed overnight in the cooler, converting it into a whipped-style cream cheese. Depending upon your choice of add-ons, yogurt cheese is a versatile canvas for either sweet or savory applications. Use it as a topping or filling for baked goods. For a savory accompaniment, mix the cheese with herbs, spices and vegetables. For desserts, mix it with dried fruit, nuts and honey—or plain as topping for fruit compotes.