Jams and Jellies

Originally concocted as a way to preserve summer’s bounty, today’s preserved fruits like jams, jellies, and marmalades are more a simple pleasure than a necessity. Used in a range of sweet and savory dishes, their role in the kitchen is virtually unlimited. And although there will always be a place for strawberry jelly smeared on an English muffin, or apricot jam between layers of a perfect génoise, the use of these fruity mixtures is broadening beyond the bread basket and pastry cart. Contemporary variations, ranging from onion marmalade to tomato jam, are adding flair to appetizers and entrees.

Jams, jellies, and marmalades are often all referred to as ‘preserves,’ yet each has characteristics that make them uniquely individual.

Jam is simply crushed or chopped fruit that has been cooked with sugar until the fruit is soft and the mixture is thick. Pectin, a gelatin-like, water-soluble substance (only effective when mixed with the correct balance of sugar and acid), is sometimes added for extra thickening (particularly with fruits that don’t have enough natural pectin to jell themselves). When pectin is not used, the mixture has most likely been reduced down to the desired thickness.

Jelly is made from sparkling clear fruit juice that has been strained through a jelly bag (a porous, closely woven fabric) and jelled. The finished product is firm enough to hold its shape when removed from its container, but has a tender texture. Most commonly used as a spread for breads, jelly is also used as a filling or glaze for pastries. 

Marmalade is a cross between jelly and jam, containing small pieces of citrus fruit (orange marmalade is usually made with Seville oranges) and rind which is added for an additional zesty flavor. Originally, marmalades were commonly made from quince, thus the Portuguese word marmelada meaning “quince jam.”

Preserves are generally made from perfect fruit that are either whole or cut into very large pieces. The fruit is cooked in sugar just long enough for the syrup to thicken and fruit to retain its shape.

According to the Food and Drug Administration, the soluble-solids content (sugar) of preprepared preserves should not be less than 65%. If a product contains less, it does not fall under the jam/preserve category.

Of late, operators have been redefining jams and jellies to create innovative sauces and signature condiments. Rehydrated dried figs, simmered with shallots and balsamic vinegar, is menued as a ‘fig jam;’ a port wine-herb reduction mixed with pectin becomes an elegant port wine jelly. Other savory applications include barbecue sauces, glazes for poultry and fish, a base for pizzas and flatbreads, and innovative sandwich spreads. To enhance ethnic creations, some operators are reaching for exotic add-ins like jalapeño jam, chipotle preserves, and tropical marmalades.

If they are stored in a cool, dry place, fruit preserves will easily last up to one year. Al-though it’s best not to store them too long, as their flavor fades with time.