Beets, part 2

The beet is the fleshy root of a plant believed to have originated in North Africa. Red and white beets were prized by the Romans, who used their roots, while other cultures consumed only the leaves. In the 16th century, the English and Germans began to use the so-called garden beet as a vegetable, while light colored beets were used as livestock feed.

Still known as the garden beet today, the flesh of beta vulgaris is most often deep red but can also be golden or white. Perhaps the most eye-catching variety is the Chioggia (also called “candy cane”), with its concentric rings of red and white. Although this vegetable is mainly grown for its root, the leafy green tops are also edible, especially when the plant is young. The curly leaves often measure over 14 in. long and 10 in. wide.

In addition to the garden beet (called beetroot in the British Isles), are the spinach or leaf beet (Swiss chard), the sugar beet (a major source of sugar), and the mangold (used as fodder).

Red beets owe their characteristic color to betacyanin, a pigment of the anthocyanin family that is extremely soluble in water. The color of beets can be restored or revived by adding an acidic ingredient such as lemon juice or vinegar. Gloves should be worn when working with beets, however, lemon  juice will remove stains left on hands.

The slightest bruise can cause the beet to “bleed” while cooking, releasing its purple juice upon contact with the cooking liquid. This characteristic is the basis for borscht, a vibrant soup from Eastern Europe made of pureed beets. It’s served hot or cold, garnished with sour cream.

To prepare, wash beets under running water, taking care not to bruise them; scrub delicately if necessary. Cook the beet whole, without peeling, leaving the roots and 1-2 in. of stem. Depending on the size, allow 30-60 min. when boiling or steaming beets. Baking beets in the oven preserves their flavor and enhances color. To determine if the beet is cooked, hold it under a thin stream of cold water. The peel will detach itself easily if the vegetable is cooked. Avoid piercing with a fork or knife as this will cause it to bleed as well.

Beets are available year-round. Select firm, smooth-skinned beets with a deep, even color and no signs of spots or bruises. Small or medium beets are generally more tender than large mature ones. The leaves do not indicate the quality of the root, however, if they are to be used, they should be tender and have a healthy green color.

Fresh beets that still have their stem intact will keep for 2-4 weeks in the refrigerator or in a cool (32° F.) and humid place. Stored in a cellar, they will keep longer, but they tend to harden if kept for too long. Unwashed leaves will stay fresh for 3-5 days in the refrigerator when stored in a perforated plastic bag. Raw beets cannot be frozen because they become soft during thawing, but cooked beets freeze well.