Few foods offer more appealing tartness than this ancient plant, which dates back more than 2,000 years in China. Then known primarily for its purgative qualities, rhubarb has been reported to cure numerous illnesses, as well as playing an important role in developing trade between the Far East and Europe.

Not until years after rhubarb rooted itself in the European pharmacy was the celery-like plant used as a food. Appearing in America in the 18th century, rhubarb’s popularity spread among the colonists and was common in produce markets.

The earliest references of culinary rhubarb is in pies and tarts, leading to its nickname “pie plant.” Prized for its vibrant color and tart flavor, rhubarb continues to be used mainly in desserts and sauces, though its applications run the gamut.

While rhubarb is often mistaken to be a fruit, it is a close relative of garden sorrel, rich in vitamin C and dietary fiber. Typically, rhubarb is a familiar bright pink to red celery-like plant, with large bright green leaves. Only the petioles, or stalks, are eaten. The leaves and roots are poisonous to humans and animals when ingested in large amounts. However, the leaves and roots continue to be used in herbal medicines.

Available early winter through summer, varieties of rhubarb are grown either in hothouses, or in fields in Canada, Michigan, and other northern U.S. states. While several varieties exist, culinary choices are limited to strawberry rhubarb or cherry rhubarb.

Strawberry, or hothouse, rhubarb has long, straight, smooth stalks that are bright pink to red in color with a satin-like sheen. When cooked, this variety is tender and tart.

Cherry rhubarb (field-grown) has stalks of a similar shape, but are darker red to greenish-red in color. This variety has a slightly stringy yet tender texture when cooked, and is more powerfully tart than its hothouse cousin.

Rhubarb availability depends on the season and the supplier. Choice rhubarb will come in bunches in bulk cartons, complete with hearty green leaves. Avoid trimming stalks of leaves and excess until ready to use, or rhubarb may loose moisture and become limp. Stalks should be straight, firm, and smooth, without blemishes or insect damage. However, often only loose, pre-trimmed rhubarb will be available.

To lessen its shocking tartness, rhubarb typically is cooked with sugar and paired with strawberries or other sweets in desserts, sauces, and preserves. However, with modern cuisine boasting strong flavors, and an appealing interplay of sweet and savory flavors, rhubarb should find its place in almost any dish.

Pair rhubarb with meats like chicken, pork, and lamb, and use in a glaze, a ragout, or to flavor a complementary side dish. Bake it into nut breads, muffins, and cakes, or create dynamic beverages and cocktail mixers with a rhubarb-based simple syrup. 

• Applications for rhubarb are endless, but problems with availability or limp stalks can inhibit even the most creative chef. To rejuvenate limp rhubarb, stand stalks in cold water for an hour before cooking. Store rhubarb for 7 days or less in a ventilated cooler (32-36° F.) at 90-98% relative humidity.
• Save some for later: Rhubarb can be frozen or dried for future use. Before freezing rhubarb, first boil cleaned and trimmed stalks for 1 min., then cool promptly in cold water. This will help retain color and flavor. Before drying, steep 1⁄2-in. strips of rhubarb in boiling water 3-5 min. then drain. Dried rhubarb will be brittle, but will require less sugar for sweetening.