In the search for the next new darling on the vegetable front, fennel appears as a shining front runner. Little known outside the Italian and Mediterranean communities as recently as a decade ago, today fennel has emerged as a highly appealing, exotic choice. Known as finnochio in Italy, where it’s often nibbled as a post-prandial digestive, the broad, bulbous root of Florence fennel has a crisp, juicy texture and an almost sweet flavor, reminiscent of licorice with undertones of celery. Raw, the root and stalks are delicious in salads and the feathery green foliage makes a verdant garnish. When cooked, fennel takes on a sweet and delicate flavor, making it appropriate for stuffings, soups, or as a vegetable dish—try it braised, gratinéed, or sautéed.

If possible, spec fennel with the stalks intact, because it will taste fresher and more flavorful. The bulbs should be firm, smooth, and shiny greenish-white, with no signs of browning or shriveling; reject any that are pulpy or soft. Rounded bulbs tend to be sweeter than flat, elongated ones, and larger bulbs will have less waste. Newer to the market are miniature whole fennel bulbs, about the size of an egg.

For storage, remove the feathery fronds and stalks, which dry out and lose their flavor relatively quickly. The bulbs should keep for at least 4-5 days under refrigeration.

To prepare fennel, it may be necessary to first remove the heavy outermost layer of the bulb, or at least to de-string it, as for celery, with a sharp knife or vegetable peeler—especially for a raw presentation. For slices, remove and discard the knob-like core at the base of the bulb, but for wedges or halves, leaving the core intact helps keep the layers attached.

Chilled fennel slices or thin wedges are delicious served raw, lightly dressed with fruity olive oil and vinegar. It’s further enhanced by assertive greens like watercress or arugula for a sprightly salad, or garnishes like thin shards of Parmesan cheese. Raw fennel is also a great crudité. Blanched or poached in seasoned court bouillon, then chilled and dressed with vinaigrette, fennel is also perfect for the classic cold vegetable treatment called à la grecque. The fern-like greenery can be snipped in as a last-minute addition to many dishes, somewhat like dill.

Fennel can be sautéed or stir-fried, alone or with a combination of other ingredients. The bulbs can be halved or quartered and braised with chicken stock as an accompaniment to roasts or other straightforward fare. It’s also wonderful when simply roasted or grilled. Used in soups and chowders, fennel adds depth of flavor and body. In other words, fennel can and should be going places.

Plays well with other spices: It’s an integral ingredient in five-spice powder and Indian spice blends.

A well-traveled seasoning: Fennel seed is a staple spice around the Mediterranean and in Central Europe, appearing in such dishes as sauerkraut, goose and duck, and borscht. It also works well with most fish and shellfish and such hearty vegetables as beets, tomatoes, potatoes, and cabbage.