Top to bottom: Leek, scallions

Tear-stained cutting board, a runny nose, and red eyes—there must be an onion in the house. Looking for a break from the waterworks? Scallions and leeks have that oniony flavor, but they aren’t such tearjerkers.

In the U.S., “scallion” is used to describe onion seedlings or bulbless onions, including immature specimens of a variety of different onions, such as white onions, young leeks, and even shallots; they are sometimes called green onions, spring onions, or salad onions. The scallion’s white base—really an undeveloped onion bulb—may be sweet or pungent, but its long, straight green leaves are generally sweet. There are white, yellow, and red-skinned scallions; the latter are called purplettes and have pinkish flesh. Scallions are available year-round, although they are at their peak during spring and summer.

Choose scallions with firm white bulbs and long, bright-green, crisp stems; there should be no yellowing or tearing. Store scallions wrapped in a plastic bag at 32°F (90-95% humidity) for up to five days.

Sliced scallions are used in stir-fries and traditional Chinese cooking, but they also make bright garnishes for salads and soups, and are a must with sour cream and cheese on top of chili. Scal­lions can also be cooked whole as a vegetable —much like leeks—and can be substituted for shallots by chopping their white part and combining it with an equal amount of garlic.

Leeks, the larger, sweeter cousin of the scallion, are native to the Mediterranean, and are related to both garlic and onions. Leeks have a flavorful white bulb (the part call­ed for in most recipes), and broad, flat, dark-green leaves wrapped tightly around each other—much like the leaves of a cigar. Leeks are available year-round in most regions, and have a mildly sweet onion flavor.

While leeks can grow to 10 in. or longer, the smaller ones are more tender and flavorful. Look for leeks with crisp, bright leaves and an unblemished white portion, preferably with untrimmed tops and bottoms. Like scallions, leeks can be stored in the refrigerator in plastic bags, for up to 5 days. Before using, trim rootlets and leaf ends, then slit the full length of the leek and wash it thoroughly to remove all the dirt trapped between the layered leaves.

Most commonly, leeks are used to flavor stocks and soups (potato-leek being one such claim to fame), but their sweet onion flavor makes them popular additions to savory tarts, pastries, and quiches. They may also appear chopped in salads, frizzled to garnish meats, or fried for a very different kind of onion ring. In France, large leeks are served poached and chilled with vinai­grette, while baby leeks are served hot with a cream sauce. Don’t forget the best part: No tissues needed!

Waiter, is that a ramp in my soup?
Ramps, or wild leeks, resemble large scallions: they have a slim, scallion-like stalk, with broad leaves, a woodsy aroma, and an intense garlic-onion flavor. Ramps are available from late March to early June, often direct from farmers who sell them in bunches tied with twine. Choose ramps that are firm and bright green, with roots that are still intact and covered with dirt. Rinse ramps thoroughly to remove all grit, and trim the root end before cooking. Store ramps in tightly wrapped layers of plastic to prevent everything in the walk-in from smelling strongly of onions.

When substituting ramps for scallions or leeks, reduce the quantity to compensate for their aggressive flavor. Ramps infuse wonderfully in stocks and soups. Or try them simply seasoned with olive oil, salt and pepper, and roasted. Ramps can also be pickled to preserve their symbol-of-spring freshness.