Talk about trendy: It can be wok-seared, slow-roasted, showcased in panini or a vegetable-based entree. Time to get reacquainted with this versatile ingredient.

With the popularity of fusion fare comes eggplant in a world of variations. Fortunately, it’s always been a versatile, low-cost food item that works as a side dish, appetizer, dip, sauce, or entree. And like the portobello mushroom, eggplant has a hearty, meaty savor that makes it particularly well-suited to meatless options. The succulent texture of eggplant is also perfect for grilling or roasting—two very appealing cooking methods right now.

A member of the nightshade family, eggplant is actually a fruit, though it’s treated as a vegetable. The most familiar eggplant is the large-fruited, dark purple variety, which ranges in shape from globular to egg-sized.

Although the dark-purple form—sometimes referred to as the “Western” or globe eggplant—is perhaps the most versatile, many chefs are experimenting with other varieties, from readily available Japanese and white varieties, to tiny dwarf or pea eggplant, lavender or striated Asian specialties, and even heirloom specimens.

Long, slender Japanese eggplant (also called Asian eggplant) varies in color from light violet to deep purple. It has delicate, thin skin—no peeling necessary—with all of the sweet flavor and none of the characteristic bitterness of globe eggplant. Japanese eggplant can be used in any traditional eggplant preparation, but it makes the most sense to use this variety in applications that showcase its color, size, and shape. They also cook more quickly than standard eggplant, making them a good choice for stir-frying.

White and white-violet varieties are also sweeter and less bitter than purple eggplant, with firm flesh that is creamy in texture when cooked. The white skin is thicker than that of purple eggplant, and should show no signs of yellowing, which indicates that it’s past its prime.

No matter the variety, eggplant should be firm, plump, and heavy for their size, with an even-colored, glossy skin and green cap and stem; reject product that has any soft spots or is wilted, bruised, or shriveled in appearance. Fresh eggplant will yield to the pressure of a finger, but bounces back without leaving a blemish. Eggplant that is lightweight, rather than substantial, will probably have pulpy or pitted flesh.

Eggplant tends to bruise easily, inviting decay, and is sensitive to fluctuations in temperature. Handle with care, and avoid stacking containers. The Produce Marketing Association recommends storing eggplant at 45-50° F., 85-90% relative humidity—don’t hold eggplant at room temperature. Eggplant are relatively perishable and become increasingly bitter with age, so for the best flavor, plan on using them within a few days of delivery. 

• Eggplant can be grilled, baked, fried, broiled, and roasted. It must be cooked thoroughly, however; undercooked eggplant is spongy, unpleasant tasting, and possibly harmful.
• Its neutral flavor and rich texture complements a variety of bold seasonings, from garlic and herbs, to chiles and curry.
• Owing to its spongy texture, eggplant soaks up oil readily. To avoid turning it into a fat magnet, eggplant can be first salted or blanched. Eggplant for frying, meanwhile, should be well coated with crumbs or batter.
• To help rid eggplant of bitterness, and flush out excessive moisture, slice the fruit, sprinkle with salt, and weight or drain in a colander for 20-30 min. Rinse well and dry thoroughly.