Left to right: Red, green and yellow curry

Curry pastes have about as many permutations as they do ingredients. Early curry powders and pastes—intense spice combinations intended to be eaten as a kind of soup with a grain—originated in South India and Southeast Asia, and spread throughout Europe in ever-changing combinations during the spice trade.

At this point, the spice blend we know as curry depended on black pepper for its gustatory heat. It wasn’t until the mid-16th century, when chiles were brought to this region from the New World, that curries (and likewise, curry pastes) take on their now-familiar flavor and palate-challenging heat.

There are subtle, but significant differences in the range of curry pastes on the market—and therefore in each curry dish. While Indian spice blends typically are made up of roasted and ground spices (making pastes with the addition of oil), Thai curry pastes combine ground spices, raw, fresh ingredients and shrimp paste for moisture.

Generally, curry pastes are made from a combination of onion, garlic, coriander (leaf and root), lemon grass, glanagal (a Thai ginger), cumin, black peppercorns, turmeric, lime, shrimp paste and chiles. Green paste uses fresh green chiles, and red paste uses red chiles and paprika for color. Yellow curry paste—sometimes called “sour”—gets most of its color from a hefty dose of turmeric.

Arguments endure about which color paste is hottest, and it is often impossible to predict, due to varying recipes and hotness of chiles. Traditionally, green curry paste is considered hottest, with red and yellow following, respectively.

Thais traditionally make small batches of curry paste fresh daily with a mortar and pestle, individually grinding the aromatic spices into powders, then pounding the “wet” ingredients (such as garlic, chiles, onion, and the more fibrous ginger and lemon grass) and blending them together to form a paste. While this labor-intensive preparation is highly valued, many prepared curry pastes are considered equally authentic.

And the convenience is significant. Curry pastes add intense, deep flavor and subsequent heat to any dish—not just traditional curries—instantly. When used judiciously, curry pastes add layers of flavor to soups, stews, braising liquids and reductions. Use it to season a simple sauté of vegetables, or to create bold salad dressings, marinades or meat rubs.

The only key is to use them cautiously—a little goes a long way. Experts recommend working up to the desired flavor and heat level. For soups and other liquid applications, start with a scant teaspoon, or half of what is called for in a recipe. For seasoning vegetables and salad dressings, start with even less.

Purists would argue that the most flavorful and authentic curry pastes are handmade. However, prepared varieties are obtained easily and comparably authentic, not to mention efficient.

Freshly made curry pastes can be stored refrigerated in an airtight container for up to four months. After that, flavors begin to fade. Prepared and vacuum-sealed curry pastes can last indefinitely. Once opened, they also should be refrig-
erated and used within four months.

Masaman: A paste made from traditional ingredients, but with fried onion, garlic and shrimp paste. Also may be flavored with fennel, cardamom, mace and cloves.

Panang: A traditional paste with roasted chiles and roasted aromatic spices. Also features lemon grass and kaffir lime leaf.

Madras: A blend of coriander, cumin, black pepper, turmeric, chili powder, black mustard seed, garlic and ginger, moistened with vinegar and oil.

Indian Green Masala: A mild paste flavored with fenugreek, mint, cardamom, ginger, garlic, turmeric, cilantro and cloves, moistened with vegetable and perhaps sesame oils.