| Endive |
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Arguably one of the most aristocratic lettuces around, endive (formally Belgian endive) is actually the result of a fortuitous farming accident. In the mid-1800s, a farmer outside of Brussels stored some chicory roots in his cellar—and left them there for some time. Returning later, the farmer found the roots had sprouted in the damp, dark environment. The result was a small, blanched shoot now known as Belgian endive. The unintentional neglect not only produced a nutritious leafy winter vegetable for Belgian natives, but more than a hundred years later, the crisp, slightly bitter leaves are prized for their flavor, eye appeal and versatility. Understandably, endive is often confused with its cousin chicory, a root typically roasted and ground into a coffee substitute that is popular in New Orleans. But endive sprout from the chicory root in a labor-intensive farming practice called blanching. The plants are kept in the dark to prevent the leaves from producing chlorophyll, turning green and, consequentially, unpleasantly bitter-tasting. Endive (also called French endive or witloof) are small (typically 6-8-in. long), cigar-shaped heads of cream-colored, tightly packed leaves. The leaves may be tipped with either a buttery yellow or vibrant burgundy color (see box). To use endive, slice off the stem end and separate leaves from the heart. Raw endive leaves are prized for their crunchy texture and slightly bitter flavor. Cooking endive lessens its peppery bite. Most popularly, endive leaves are used whole (allowing the leaves to cradle dressing) or sliced into a thin julienne. For salads, it can be featured alone, or with other greens, such as arugula, watercress and radicchio. Its flavor partners well with richly flavored ingredients, such as nuts and cheeses, as well as fruits and tart vinaigrette dressings. The sturdy elongated leaves are also prized as a garnish, or vehicle for hors d’oeuvres, where they’re filled with creamy cheeses, smoked fish or caviar. Endive also can be grilled, braised, baked in a gratin or sautéed with other ingredients. For a distinctive side dish, braise trimmed, whole heads in butter, simply seasoned with salt and pepper. Puree sautéed endive for soups or sauces, or as a base flavoring for a savory flan. Cooking endive results in a subtly sweet, slightly crunchy ingredient for soups, stews or as an accompaniment for fish, shellfish, poultry and meats. Belgian endive is available from September through May, with a peak season from November through April. Look for crisp, firmly packed heads with a creamy-white color. Belgian endive should be stored refrigerated, wrapped in a paper towel inside a plastic bag (they will become bitter if exposed to light). Keep for no more than a day for optimum usage, but endive will last a couple of weeks with minimal shrinkage when properly stored. Cultured cousins Endive has two other popular relations: curly endive and escarole. Curly Endive: Also called chicory in the U.S., curly endive grows in loose heads of lacy, green-rimmed outer leaves that curl at the tips. The leaves of the curly endive have a prickly texture and slightly bitter taste that best accompany salad mixes, but also can be cooked and eaten as a vegetable or used in soups. Escarole: This leafy vegetable has broad, slightly curved, pale green leaves with a milder flavor than other endive varieties. It is used in salads, but also favored in soups and stews. Both curly endive and escarole are available year-round, peak season running June through October. Choose fresh, blemish-free, crisp heads with rich color. Store both tightly wrapped in the refrigerator for up to 3 days. |
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