Discovering the history of frisée is like stumbling across the complicated family tree of an ancient royal family. Horticul­turally, it is a close relative of—and often confused with—chicory, escarole, radicchio, and endive. But frisée stands out as an individual for its characteristic appearance and distinctive flavor.

Technically a member of the endive family, frisée is often referred to in the U.S. as curly endive. In appearance, it is a tightly compacted head of outer green leaves atop spiny white ribs that surround a tender, buttery-white heart. Frisée is the green’s French name (actually chicorée frisée), meaning “frizzy chicory” to describe the plant’s wild-looking, rough-edged leaves.

Particularly abundant in Italy, frisée was harvested, and later cultivated, by ancient Egyptians, Greeks, and Romans. In addition, it grows wild throughout the rest of Europe, Western Asia, and Africa. The earliest cultivators used the green raw or lightly blanched—a common cooking method.

Today, frisée is most frequently served as a salad green. It’s found in the salad mix mesclun, which contains other young, slightly bitter greens related to the endive family, such as radic­chio (see below). While it is still less bitter than most chicories, frisée’s flavor is best balanced with an emollient, such as egg or bacon fat. One such popular preparation is frisée dressed with olive oil and vinegar, then topped with a poached egg and served with bacon lardons and croutons. The warm egg yolk, when broken, provides a rich dressing for the slightly bitter greens. A warm dressing made with bacon fat does the same trick.

With its distinctive appearance, flavor, and texture, frisée works well as a garnish for rich proteins. Try serving a warm duck confit or roasted pork loin atop a bed of seasoned frisée for a sophisticated contrast of temperatures and textures, or finish off bruschetta or pizza with shredded, seasoned frisée.

Like its cousin, escarole, frisée can also be served as a cooked vegetable or thrown into the pot to enhance soups and stews. Briefly sauté frisée in olive oil and season (either alone, or with other vegetables) for a side dish. Or add to risottos, soups, or stews at the last minute, allowing the green to wilt, but remain bright green with a slight crunch.

Frisée is available year-round, although its peak season is from June through October. Select frisée for its fresh, crisp texture, and firm, curly green leaves. Avoid choosing discolored or insect-damaged heads. Frisée should be stored unwashed and tightly wrapped in the refrigerator for up to five days. Wash the green just before using.

It’s all relative
Members of the endive and chicory families provide a varied palette of color and texture.

• Radicchio: The size of a large grapefruit, this Italian chicory looks like a small maroon-leafed cabbage with bright white ribs. Typically used in salads, but can be grilled or stuffed.
• Treviso: A milder variety of radicchio, this chicory looks like an overgrown Belgian endive. Its leaves are also maroon with white ribs, but their shape resembles romaine lettuce. Commonly used in salads, but can be braised, sautéed, stuffed, or grilled.
• Belgian Endive: Also known as French endive or witloof, this 6-in., cigar-shaped head of creamy white, tightly-packed leaves is grown in complete darkness (like white asparagus) to prevent it from turning green. Typically used raw, the slightly bitter, tender leaves can also stand up to braising and baking.
• Escarole: Like frisée, escarole has pale green, curly leaves, but is slightly larger and less bitter than other family members. Use in salads, side dishes, or soups.