Clockwise from top left: Ranier, Bing and dried cherries. Bottom: Compote

Succulent and candy-colored, life can be like the proverbial bowl of cherries when these tasty gems are on the menu.

Cherries date back to the Stone Age and are named after the town of Cerasus in present-day Turkey. Today, the U.S. leads the world in cherry production, with over 70% coming from growers in Oregon, Washington, Idaho, and Utah. Cherry season is short, but very sweet, beginning in mid-June and lasting through mid-August.

Versatile enough to fill a tart or accompany a savory roast duck, cherries are perfect for a myriad of foodservice needs. There are two basic types of cherries from which to choose: sweet and tart. Both varieties are naturally fat-free and low in calories (90 per cup), yet rich in dietary fiber (3gm), vitamin C (providing 10% of the RDA), iron, calcium, and potassium. Current research also shows that sweet cherries are packed with anthocyanins, a family of antioxidants that may reduce the risk of cancer and cardiovascular disease.

Sweet cherries include Bing, Ranier, Lambert, Lapins, Sweetheart, and Royal Ann (from which maraschino cherries are made). The Bing cherry is the earliest, largest, and most popular in the cherry kingdom. Named in 1875 after a Manchurian cherry foreman, it is lush and juicy, with dark purplish-black skin and flesh. The Ranier cherry has a distinct golden skin with a pink hue, and deliciously rich, clear-colored flesh. It is the sweetest cherry, with sugar content reaching 25% (average sugar content is 17-19% ).

The Lambert cherry appears in late June, and is dark red, heart-shaped, and slightly smaller than the Bing. The Lapins cherry arrives in July, has red flesh and mahogany skin, and is famous for its extra-large size at maturity. The latest-season arrival is the fire-engine red, spicy Sweetheart cherry.

Tart cherries are too sour to be eaten raw, so they’re seldom sold fresh, but are available year-round in frozen, canned, and dried forms—perfect for compotes, preserves, chutneys, and the like. Mostly grown in Michigan (75% of the domestic harvest), tart cherry varieties include the Early Richmond (available in late spring), the Montmorency, and the Morello.

Cherries should be purchased only from June through August; anything in the market later may have been in storage too long. Sweet cherries should be firm, but not hard; if available fresh, the sour variety should be medium-firm. Stemmed cherries are a better buy, but those with stems will last longer. Cherries are available for commercial use in 11- to 20-lb. cartons or lugs, and 32-lb. crates. Store fresh cherries unwashed, in the refrigerator (32-36°F, 98% humidity).

Dried cherries (both sweet and tart) are a great addition to oatmeal, granola, and trail-mix snack packs. They also shine in baked goods like muffins and cookies, desserts like rice pudding, and breads made with nuts or chocolate. Dried cherries add an interesting dimension to savory dishes like wild rice and game, sauces, and salads. For a twist on a classic, try dried cherries over arugula, with blue cheese, toasted pecans, and roasted pears.

Cherries out of season
Their season is brief, but cherries can be enjoyed year-round. While there are many high-quality jarred and canned cherries on the market, some operators prefer their own. Mark Meyer, chef/co-owner of Five Points in New York, preserves cherries in a spiced syrup made with red wine, white wine vinegar, water, sugar, cinnamon, mace, allspice, and a touch of pomegranate molasses; the preserves accompany pork chops well into winter. Cherries may also be frozen for up to one year. Or to dry cherries, cut them in half and place skin side down on dehydrator trays. Dry at 140°F for 6-12 hours. Store in airtight plastic bags.