Clockwise from top right: Sweet dumpling, acorn, delicata, kuri, kabocha (center), buttercup, butternut, spaghetti, turban

The fall and winter months bring endless varieties resembling boomerangs, footballs, and multi-colored turbans. Yet when it comes to cooking—whether it’s a 2-lb. delicata or a 15-lb. hubbard—winter squash are handled alike. Baked, steamed, pureed, or braised, their subtle flavor has enhanced sweet and savory dishes for centuries.

The winter squash (Cucurbitaceae) is a member of the gourd, cucumber, and melon family. The male flowers (staminate) on this climbing vine or bush are picked in full bloom in the summertime and often stuffed, deep-fried, or used in soups and salads. The female (pistillate) flowers are left on to produce one of the most evocative fruits of the season.

Although many varieties are available year round, the principle growing season is October to March. Larger and harder than its summer relative, (harvested while the immature rinds and seeds are still thin and tender) the winter squash has a thick skin that requires longer cooking. Here, a few restaurant favorites:

Buttercup: A sweeter cousin of the turban squash (a colorful but bland-tasting variety), the buttercup has a thick ivy-green skin with grayish stripes and a distinct whitish “cap.” The fine-textured dark orange flesh is quite tender with a flavor not unlike a sweet potato. The buttercup becomes creamy when steamed, and somewhat drier when baked. Its sweet flesh is perfect for pies, purees, and puddings.

Kabocha: A symbol of good health for centuries in Japan, the kabocha is still fairly new to the U.S. market. This honey-tasting squash has a dry, fine-grain texture that maintains its shape when cooked, making it ideal for tempura dishes.

Spaghetti: The flesh of this football-shaped squash can range from yellow to orange and separates into spaghetti-like strands when roasted or boiled. Like pasta, the cooked strands of squash can be sauced with a number of ingredients to create an interesting side dish. Also used in stir-fries and salads.

Butternut: This large, cylindrical shaped squash has a round, bulbous end with a tan shell and intense peachy-orange flesh. The butternut has a distinctly sweet flavor and is a favorite in stews, soups, and makes a sweet stuffing for ravioli.

Acorn: A small, acorn-shaped squash with sweet, ivory or orange flesh. It’s best when simply baked, but also delicious in soups, stuffings, stews, and pies.

When selecting, look for fruit that’s heavy for its size with a hard, deep-colored rind.  Keep in a cool, (50°-60°F.) place up to 2-3 months with the exception of spaghetti squash, which should only be stored up to 3 weeks.